A heat pump may actually provide more than three units of heat for each unit of electricity used. If a kilowatt-hour of heat is needed for comfort, it can be supplied by a one thousand-watt electric heater. To provide the same amount of heat the heat pump might use as little as 330 watts in an hour. This is a ratio of three to one. The ratio is referred to as the Coefficient of Performance (COP). Electric resistance heaters have a COP of 1 because they are using electricity to create heat. A heat pump moves heat from the outside to the inside of the home and vice versa, not using energy to create heat. We recommend. a COP of at least 1.8 at standard test conditions of 17 ° F dry bulb and 15 ° F wet bulb.

    I am sure that explanation was as clear as mud. Let's look at it this way. Gas and fuel oil prices are going through the roof. It looks like the heat pump is becoming a better option.

     During the heating season, we recommend a setting that is comfortable for your household. Once your thermostat is set, the best policy is to leave it alone. Raising the thermostat as little as 2 ° F may cause the supplementary heat to come on, thereby increasing your energy usage. Although night setback is recommended during the winter for most types of heating systems, to save energy and reduce costs, it is not generally recommended for a heat pump unless a programmable thermostat designed expressly for a heat pump is used. When you have a heat pump, and raise the house temperature in the morning, the supplementary heat may come on using more electricity than you save during the night. Reduce the thermostat temperature setting for weekend trips or vacations during the heating season.

     In the winter, we recommend a temperature Setting that is comfortable for your household. Once your thermostat is set, the best policy is to leave it alone. Raising the thermostat as little as 2 ° F may cause the supplementary heat to come on, thereby increasing your energy usage. In the summer, a setting of 78 ° F or higher is recommended for cooling. For each degree you set the temperature below 78 ° F, you will increase your cooling energy usage approximately three percent. Raising the temperature when you are away from home during the day is recommended to save energy. If you will be away for several days, turn the system off during the cooling season. Frequent changing of the thermostat setting reduces the economical operation of the heat pump and tends to shorten the life of the compressor.

 Should The Thermostat Be Set Back At Night Or Should I Close Off Registers To Cut Back Usage?

     Although night setback is recommended during the winter for most types of heating system to save and reduce costs, it is generally not recommended for a heat pump unless a programmable thermostat designed expressly for use with a heat pump is used. When you have a heat pump and raise the house temperature in the morning, the supplementary heat may come on using more electricity than you saved during the night. Reduce the thermostat temperature settings for weekend trips or vacations during the heating season. The use of a standard automatic nighttime setback control with a heat pump is not recommended. Many manufactures now provide programmable thermostats designed for night setback so that the supplementary heaters will not normally be energized during the time that the heating system is recovering. Do not block registers and return grills with furniture, draperies, or rugs. Although cutting off heat to unused rooms is frequently suggested as a conservation measure, we recommend that all supply registers for a heat pump be left open. The system is designed to heat or cool a specific space. If air circulation is reduced drastically, the compressor may be damaged.

     The lights on your thermostat indicate the backup auxiliary heat is on. The colder it becomes outside, the less amount of heat is in the air to heat your home. This causes the heat pump to hit its balance point meaning it is running at full capacity. If the home requires more heat, the supplemental heat is used. This is when the lights are on at the thermostat. If your thermostat does not have indicator lights to show when the backup auxiliary heat is on, it would be beneficial to have a contractor replace it. This would allow you control of your resistance heat as well as indicate when this heat is being used.

 What Are Some Ways To Help Control My Heating And Cooling Costs?

      Once the thermostat is set, it should be left alone. However, programmable thermostats are commonly installed on systems to setback the house temperatures while you are away from your home. The air filters inside the system need to be checked, cleaned, or changed each month. The outdoor fan should not be covered or obstructed, so it can receive proper air flow. Precision Tune Up checks should be performed which include refrigerant level checks, indoor/outdoor coil inspections (cleaning, if needed) and duct inspections. Duct inspections are very important. A poorly performing duct system can cause air comfort problems, high utility bills, and could become hazardous. We can measure your entire system's performance and show you how to get the most out of your heating and cooling system. 

     The accelerated movement of the supply air varies from 85 ° to 106 ° F in the winter. Air movement causes some evaporation of skin moisture causing the sensation of coolness. By setting the proper supply air speed on a heat pump it will provide comfortable air temperatures.

 How Often Should I Change Filters?

     Inspect each month and change or clean filters as needed. Time intervals frequently vary with each family. The most important aspect of efficient  operation of your heating and cooling system is proper air flow. Dirty air  filters will severely limit air flow, which can cause the compressor to run continuously or overheat your heat exchanger. Dirty filters could cause a 20 percent or more increase in operating costs. The outdoor units should be free of debris to ensure uninterrupted movement of air. Check out these Filter Tips and our Guide for Indoor Air Quality.

     Under certain weather conditions, the outdoor unit will develop ice buildup. When the unit defrosts this ice, it gives off water vapor, which appears to be smoke. If excess ice builds up on the outdoor unit after more than 90 minutes elapsed time, switch emergency heat to "on" and call your heating and cooling contractor if the condition does not clear.

 The average service life of the heat pump is 15 to 20 years The average service life of the compressor is approximately 10 to 15 years.                                        

What Is This Thing Called SEER?

     SEER is an acronym for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. The seasonal energy efficiency rating (SEER) of your heat pump or air conditioning unit is to these pieces of equipment as miles per gallon (MPG) is to cars. It is a measure of the air conditioning performance of the system, where the higher rating is the better. The basic formula for SEER, or how this number is assigned, is BTU's of the air conditioning unit divided by the wattage needed to run the unit (BTU/WATT). The consumer must beware, however, because many companies are currently producing budget grade 12 and 14 SEER units that are not built to high quality standards. Be certain to always review the specifications and features of a unit with your sales rep- resentative to ensure that you are getting what you expect. Remember to ask questions about SEER, your asking about your air conditioning's miles per gallon.

 What Is This Thing Called H.S.P.F.?

     H.S.P.F. = Heating Seasonal Performance Factor. The heating seasonal performance factor (HSPF) is a measure of heat pump heating performance. Like the SEER rating, it is similar to the miles per gallon (MPG) of your automobile . . . the higher, the better. The HSPF rating number is derived by taking an average of performance at many different outdoor temperatures. Because HSPF is the best way to judge how efficient a heat pump is, it is important to review this rating with your sales representative as you consider specifications on your new system.

     Consumers MUST purchase from the contractor they trust the most. Installing heating and cooling systems properly requires significant expertise. The contractor who provides the best solution, proves that his  staff is capable and has a track record of responding after the sale, is the one you should select to install your new system. Because the manufacturer transfers system responsibility to the dealer after it leaves the factory, your contractor is your only advocate and will be directly answerable for your satisfaction. In summary, choose the contractor in whom you believe and who is able to prove to you that he has the capabilities to cement a long term relationship with you, the customer.

 Why Do Prices Differ From Contractor To Contractor On The Same Unit?

     When consumers decide to buy toaster ovens, televisions and trash compactors, the process is typically to go out, check prices and buy the product with the best price. Price shopping makes the purchase easy . . . the price tells us who to buy from. But, when it comes to buying a heating and cooling system, price may get you into deep trouble. Many consumers ask: How can the price be different . . . all three contractors are quoting the same unit?? The answer is easy and difficult at the same time. Heating and cooling systems are not toaster ovens. They do not just come out of the box, plug in and operate. When a contractor estimates a system, the equipment itself is only 40% to 50% of the price. The balance is in design, labor, parts, materials, warranty,  wiring, controls and other components. So, when the consumer is presented with the price, they must know that a significant portion of the total bill is for things other than equipment. It's a fact that, when there is a difference in price on heating and cooling systems, there is always a difference in the scope of the job. Consumers must take great care in educating themselves on the contractor and his sales representative, because bottom line, you are NOT buying a heating and cooling system, you are buying a contractor. Always buy from the contractor in whom you have the most confidence. Period. Be sure that your contractor gets to know you and takes the time to discover how you live, your comfort problems and your plans for your home. All of this information will help him or her in the process of designing the system that is just right for you.

Why Should I Invest In A 13 SEER Or Higher Unit?

     There are 13 reasons why you should purchase a heat pump/air conditioner carrying a 13 SEER rating or higher:

1. 13 SEER or higher units are 20% to 50% more efficient than 10 SEER units, saving you energy dollars through every season of the year.
2. They are much quieter than 10 SEER units, which makes your home a more pleasant place to live.
3. They have a 5 to 10 year compressor warranty and up to five years full parts, labor, materials and freon warranty, which ensures that the costs to run this unit are low. (Ask your contractor for details)
4. They are built better and have a much nicer fit and finish.
5. 13 SEER or higher units are fitted with much better controls and protective devices to protect the unit if a problem occurs (bad power, refrigerant loss, etc.)
6. 13 SEER or higher units have a new high tech scroll compressor which is extremely reliable and provides warmer feeling heat.
7. They have a 5 minute time-delay to keep heat from turning on and off during storms, or if someone is tampering with the thermostat.
8. They have commercial grade service valves to keep service costs down and equipment life high.
9. They have compressor sound and fan insulation systems that are attractive and significantly reduce the sound of the outdoor unit.
10. They have a much better blower than the standard system which enhances performance and comfort.
11. They have an expansion valve that adjusts the refrigerant flow which allows the unit to provide a higher level of comfort and better humidity control.
12. 13 SEER or higher units have an accumulator which catches extra refrigerant and helps protect the compressor.
13. And lastly, the Department of Energy says so!!  Oh yeah!  In January 2006, the DOE is raised the minimum cooling efficiency on residential air conditioners and heat pumps to 13 SEER from its older minimum of 10 SEER.   Questions?  Ask a Sales Consultant.

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